Ngabuburit, takjil and snacks enliven Ramadan in Yogyakarta
IF in many locations in Malaysia, the practice of sharing sustenance in the month of Ramadan by giving free food to the public, usually involves a menu of bubur lambuk.
Different and varied foods are also available, depending on community initiatives, mosque communities, private company sponsorships or individuals.
Such sharing of sustenance is also flourishing in Yogyakarta, Indonesia, when the practice of giving takjil can be found anywhere throughout the Muslim fasting month. From simple sunnah sweets, to more complete meals.
Takjil in the Arabic version means ‘hurry up’ in the matter of breaking the fast. However, in Indonesian, takjil generally in a cultural context refers to ‘food for breaking the fast’, which is not far from the meaning of the term ‘iftar’ which is more commonly used in Malaysia.
The atmosphere before breaking the fast around the Jogokaryan Mosque, Kauman, Yogyakarta. – Photo: Instagram @MasjidJogokaryan
“What is always there (giving free food), is dates and drinks. If the food is heavier, there are various kinds, such as chicken rice or soto.
“If the mosque is in the village, the residents will be assigned in turn to prepare free takjil for the congregation. Almost all mosques will provide free takjil throughout Ramadan,” said a local resident, Ahmad Yusuf, about the culture of takjil distribution.
He, who lives in the Gunungkidul district, also said that the time of cycling is an opportunity for people to go out to find their own break-fast food, whether they get it for free, or what they want to buy.
Locals flock to Kampung Ramadan Jogokariyan, Kauman to find food for breaking the fast. – Photo: Tovic Raharja / HamzTravels Yogyakarta
What is ‘ngaburit’?
Basically, the term derived from the Sundanese word means a period of time while waiting for the Maghrib call to prayer and breaking the fast in the month of Ramadan. The use of the term and its content then spread throughout Indonesia as a form of tradition, and is associated with any activity carried out while waiting for the time to enjoy iftar.
Among the filling of ngabuburit are sightseeing activities in the evening, preparing food and drinks at home with family members, visiting the Ramadan market to buy takjil, or studying the Quran in a mosque or musala (sura) in the neighborhood.
In addition, there are various other events organized such as recreation in public parks, attending religious tazkirah sessions, participating in scientific seminars, and even music, art and cultural activities that do not deviate from Islamic regulations.
The excitement of the atmosphere at the entrance to Kampung Jogokariyan. – Photo: Tovic Raharja / HamzTravels Yogyakarta
‘Ramadan Village’ became the focus
If in Yogyakarta, which location is the center of many visits in conjunction with Ramadan? Besides Pasar Sore Ramadan Kauman, Lembah UGM and Pasar Ramadan Pakualaman, there is a ‘central’ attraction when talking about the colors of the fasting month in Yogyakarta.
“If the most popular, it must be at the Jogokariyan Mosque. There are many sales, no less lively than the Ramadan bazaar in Kampung Baru KL,” replied a friend, Tovic Raharja to the writer.
Coincidentally, he and his wife and children recently visited Kuala Lumpur for a few days to experience the atmosphere of Ramadan in Malaysia.
Just as Ahmad Yusuf suggested, Tovic also continued to cite the name of Kampung Ramadan Jogokariyan as the main choice.
The preparation of takjil at the Jogokaryan Mosque reached more than 3,000 plates a day in the month of Ramadan this year – Photo: Ahmad Yusuf / HamzTravels Yogyakarta
“Not only during Ramadan, the Jogokaryan Mosque organizes many Islamic programs. So throughout Ramadan, more programs are organized. They (the mosque committee) serve their people well.
“The service (any form of activity) at the mosque was developed by the community itself, along with the initiative of the people around the mosque,” explained Tovic.
Since more than a decade ago, the distribution of takjil in the grounds of the mosque, which is connected to the walkway of Kampung Ramadan Jogokaryan, has increased the number of visitors.
“Alhamdulillah this year we were able to distribute around 3,000 plates of rice complete with special side dishes. Even that is still not enough because the excitement of the visitors really exceeded our expectations,” said the mosque’s management via its official Instagram account.
It is understood that a plate of the meal is only worth 15,000 Rupiah (RM5) and the mosque welcomes anyone to donate to the cause.
Market snacks consisting of various types of traditional sweets steal the attention of many. – Photo: Ahmad Yusuf / HamzTravels Yogyakarta
The culinary delights of Javanese identity
Among the local identity foods that are easy to find on the streets of Yogyakarta is a special type of tempeh and tofu. Different from the usual fried preparation, bacem tempe and bacem tofu are produced by boiling the protein source with a mixture of brown sugar, shallots, garlic, hard fruits, pepper, coriander and bay leaves.
With a darker color, the combination of ingredients leaves a sweet, fatty and slightly sour taste. Either eaten as it is, or as a ‘side dish’ to be enjoyed with hot white rice.
“I prefer street food, rather than eating at a hotel banquet. It’s better if I can eat it directly with my hands,” said local boy, Aga Prastomo, when asked about his favorite iftar choice.
Refreshing ice Dawet, as well as fried crab eaten as a simple snack. – Photo: Aga Prastomo / HamzTravels Yogyakarta
Aga, who is also the host of the ceremony and television personality, had time to inspect the sales at the roadside Ramadan market close to his residence, which is in the Maguwoharjo Stadium area. Various dishes have been recorded by the camera lens at the stalls of traders there – from traditional menus to modern preparations, such as rojak ulek, siomay, es dawet and various market snacks in the form of colorful pastries.
“Es dawet is like cendol. There is coconut milk, grated ice and also liquid brown sugar,” explained Aga who often chooses to break the fast with pecel and kolak dishes for Ramadan this time.
A dish of pecel wrapped in banana leaves, also sometimes eaten with rice. – Photo: Aga Prastomo / HamzTravels Yogyakarta
Pecel or pecal refers to a traditional salad dish consisting of vegetables such as bean sprouts, sweet potato sprouts, fried tofu, kale, long beans, cucumber, tempeh and sengkuang. It is then topped with peanut sauce with the unique taste of cekur leaves. Usually, it is served with steamed rice, but sometimes with pieces of lontong or ketupat.
Meanwhile, kolak (or pengat) is a dessert made from palm sugar or coconut sugar cooked with coconut milk and pandan leaves. The main ‘star’ of the compote is banana, or it can also be replaced with pumpkin, sweet potato, salak seeds or jackfruit.
Food preparation directly as soon as the customer orders. – Photo: Aga Prastomo / HamzTravels Yogyakarta
When delving into the topic of food, Yogyakarta’s special culinary delights are actually very easy to find on every street corner, even outside the month of Ramadan.
For those who have visited the city that is rich in art appreciation, must have indirectly approached the culture and tastes of its people.
If anyone does a Google search for information about dishes such as nasi gudeg, sate klatak, oseng mercun, tiwul, bakpia and many more, it is clear that the special identity food of the Special Region revolves around its own unique delicacy. Each of them has its own story, taste and philosophy.
Here is a collection of photos of food sales for breaking fast that were recorded in Yogyakarta, Indonesia:
Rojak fruit, grilled seafood and bakwan (fried dumplings) are also popular choices among locals when buying food for breaking the fast. – Photo: Aga Prastomo / HamzTravels Yogyakarta
